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Completed Travel Journal

Dear Liza,

Now that I’m back home in Portland, I can sit down and do the finishing touches on my Danish travel journal.

I had fun drawing, painting, and inking scenes from our trip. I know photographs are more accurate, but I like being able to give my own take on things.

There are lots of flowers, of course. Denmark in summer is glorious with wild flowers!

There are maps, too, like this one of our three day road trip around the Southern Archipelago.

And this one, of the ferry service in and out of Svenborg, copied from a board by the ferry landing. There are also drawings of the wonderful play area by the Egeskov Castle. I love my bouncing stick people!

The sewing project for Liza that was on my mind and in my hands found its way into the journal.

And you can tell I am getting braver with my drawing when I make an attempt at Liza. I certainly don’t want to botch the picture. But a photo from Elbaek Skov inspired me.

I can’t yet do justice to the beauty of the place or the girl, but I can stretch my limits and get better.

And that closes the book, so to speak, on my Denmark travel journal. Where will I go next? Stay tuned!

Love,

Grandma Judy

A Bag for Liza

Dear Jasper and Kestrel,

While traveling in Denmark, I had a hand-sewing project to keep me occupied when my tourist muscles were tired. I started sewing on it at the Portland airport.

Being stuck in waiting areas is less frustrating if I have something useful to DO. So this made me very happy, stitching bits together and feeling the fabric grow under my fingers.

As I worked, I realized the fabric was getting thick, almost feeling like canvas. Was this going to work? Or was I accidentally making a brick?

Once I was in Denmark and finishing up, Liza helped me find fabric for the lining and drawstring loops, in the form of a kitchen towel from Bilka, the buy-everything store. I managed to get everything sewn together and lined. Usually, I would do this part on the machine. But hand-stitched was the way to go.

The loose weave of the towel was challenging, and felt very bulky. My confidence was slipping.

But once I got it stitched and all together (even with the weird narrow opening), it was, indeed, a functional bag.

It has two different colors of drawstrings, one made of an orange shoelace and the other a stitched length of seam binding.

It is odd and quirky and Liza knows that, like her, there is nothing like it in the world.

I am glad that I got it done and was able to leave it in Denmark where it was intended to be.

Love,

Grandma Judy

Last Adventure in Denmark

Dear Jasper and Kestrel,

Our stay in Denmark is coming to an end, but there are still adventures to be had.

Liza’s favorite walk, for example, is along a particular stretch of the Horsens fjord called Elbaek Skov. It has an unusual sort of forest that could only exist in the protected environment of a fjord.

The huge trees that grow at the very edge of the water lean way out, looking for open sunlight. And since the waves in the fjord are almost nonexistent, the trees are not damaged or eroded, but just keep leaning and growing.

Like so any of the beautiful places in Denmark, this area amazingly accessible. A small parking lot leads to a gravelled path, which runs parallel to the shore. Without the sound of crashing waves you would expect, the feeling of peace and tranquility seeps slowly into your bones and when you are done walking, you feel better than you did when you went in.

We walked until we were halfway tired (as my Dad would say), then headed back home for lunch and more chat.

I know I have to go home soon, but I am sure going to miss these lovely people and this pretty country.

Love,

Grandma Judy

To Aarhus

Dear Jasper and Kestrel,

Except for Copenhagen, cities in Denmark are pretty small compared to those in the United Sates. Aarhus, just north of Horsens, (the little heart on this map) has a population of 295,000 and is the second biggest city in the country. But since it is also on the other side of the country from the capital, Aarhus also functions as a sort of regional federal office.

We saw this clearly at Dokk1, a combination civic building and library on the old harbor in Aarhus.

It has dozens of offices where folks go for citizenship, immigration, and other business with the government, which saves folks a several-hour long trip across to Copenhagen. And, since this sort of procedure can take a long time, there was a delightful cafe with lunches, fruit, drinks, and sweet treats.

Out on the wide, sunny terraces, creative play areas kept young ones from getting restless and provided me with one of my favorite soundtracks: the laughter of happy children.

The Library was not a silence-shrouded collection of books, but a lively, light-filled collection that shares space with Lego trays, art supply bins, and broad areas for playing “Book Ping Pong” and “Book Dominos”. All this works because of the Danish sensibility of group responsibility and looking out for others.

Nothing was being broken just to break it. No one was yelling just to be loud. This place belongs to everyone, so no one wants to spoil it. It was civilized and delightful.

We walked and looked until we were worn out, and then headed home.

Tomorrow is another day with more adventures!

Love,

Grandma Judy

H. C. Andersen’s Story

Dear Jasper and Kestrel,

After we said goodbye to the Vikings, we crossed the Storebaeltbro (Great Belt Bridge) and headed into Odense, on the island of Fyn. This is the birthplace of one of the world’s great storytellers, Hans Christian Andersen.

The museum is housed in a very modern building, with a flower-covered roof and high tech displays explaining Mr. Andersen’s life and works.

The displays, one good-sized room for each story, are interactive and very fun. Liza got involved and all of them! My favorite was the story of a very choosy princess, (I couldn’t find the name!), which got Liza’s competitive impulses going. She kept going back to try and win approval of the very unpleasant princess.

The exhibits were designed by 25 different artists, so each one has a distinct feel.

The interactive nature of the exhibits even got Auntie Olga dancing!

I was pleased to see that Auntie Bridgett’s favorite story, The Ugly Duckling, was also Mr. Andersen’s favorite. He said, “It is my story. It is the story of many of us, who are born into a world which will not have us.”

It was a spectacular, exhausting visit!

Love,

Grandma Judy

The Forest Tower

Dear Jasper and Kestrel,

In a place called Camp Adventure, what would you expect to find?

Hikes in the forest, maybe, and even some zip lining and tree climbing? Camping in a yurt and soaking in a sauna? Yep, Camp Adventure has those. But that’s not why we were there.

We hiked on a very simple, civilized boardwalk through the woods, with adorable signs to tell us who else lives there.

We were told that the hike would be 3.2 kilometers. Totally do-able. So we walked and looked and then we saw it.

The Forest Tower. This wonderful construction is made of metal, with a coating that makes it look rusty, but is actually a protective finish.

It has the shape of a nuclear plant’s cooling tower, is about 135 feet high, and has a gently sloping double helix wooden ramp up to the top, around the top, and back down again.

The tower gives you new perspectives on the land, the forest, the wind, and yourself. It is an amazing experience, perfect for this Adventure Grandma.

When you get to Denmark, whatever else you do, get to Camp Adventure and walk up this tower!

Love,

Grandma Judy

Off to Meet the Vikings

Dear Jasper and Kestrel,

After the Forest Tower, we were all happily exhausted, but our day wasn’t over yet. There were reservation snafus and rearranging of expectations, which is a bit jarring, but always good experience.

We found a beautifully renovated hotel called Portgaarden in Skaelskør, had a delicious dinner, slept very well, and had a fabulous breakfast. Part of our morning was spent chucking rocks on the beach under the Storebaeltbor, the Great Belt Bridge that connects the island of Sjelland to Fyn.

This huge construction has a suspension part that is more than four miles long (more than twice as long as the Golden Gate Bridge). Then there is a lower causeway section hat is also just a bit over four miles long. It is an amazing accomplishment. We will cross that this afternoon.

But we were headed to see some old, old friends. The oldest friends in Denmark, in fact. The Vikings.

At Trellborg, we got to see the archeological remains of an actual Viking village, where hundreds of families lived, worked, raised children, and fought off enemies, starting in 980 A.D.

We saw their clothes, their weapons, and their graves.

Then we walked out into the round berm where they placed their houses, arranged for safety and society.

A model shows the overall view… some houses inside the berm, some outside for tending the sheep and the crops.

The outlines of these houses are still visible, covered in concrete to preserve them for future study. This is the best preserved Viking fort in Denmark, and there is still a lot to learn about it.

And it felt very real, very personal. These were mothers and kids, fathers and husbands, working together in a difficult situation, doing the best they knew how. From the archeological evidence, it looks like the fortress was built quickly and only occupied for about 15 years, then abandoned after a massive battle and fire.

The futility of all their work and vulnerability in a violent time leads me to think less about raiding Viking armies and more of the people who stayed home, keeping their society going. I have learned a new viewpoint. Travel does that.

Love,

Grandma Judy

Around the Southern Archipelago

Dear Jasper and Kestrel,

After a windy, stormy night’s sleep in our turret room, we walked into Old Town for a huge Breakfast. Our restaurant, Borsen, gives the feeling of having been there a long time.

Its walls are covered with tributes to actors, random local folks, and all manner of beer. The breakfast was healthy and delicious, and outside, we found pretty umbrellas to pose with.

When we said goodbye to Svendborg, we began our romp around the Southern Archipelago. An archipelago is a group of islands…. So we were in for bridges, more bridges, and a ferry!

With conversation and amazing sunny/rainy/sunny weather distracting me, the bridges sort of came and went without being noticed. But the ferry demanded some attention.

We drove onto the Langeland Ferry and climbed the stairs to the deck. It was sunny, and I wondered why more folks weren’t outside.

I stepped out to join Uncle David, and found out why… that wind will give you a beating! It was delightful, though, with enough layers…and better than sitting inside for the whole trip.

When we reached land after a 45 minute trip, we hopped back in the car and drove to a place called Camp Adventure. And there, we found some!

Love,

Grandma Judy

Through Egeskov and Beyond!

Dear Jasper and Kestrel,

Besides the historic delights of Egeskov Castle there were more modern day things to see. The owners, over the years, have massed quite a collection of cars, trucks, motorcycles, and even planes!

These are housed in a wonderfully trussed barn just across the moat from the castle.

There were de-lousing trucks from World War I and shiny modern Jaguars. It was dazzling!

When we had seen all we had the stamina to see, we drove through some rainy, then sunny, then rainy again countryside. All this summer rain sure makes for green fields! We got to the coast ( I know, most of Denmark is COAST) and found the busy shipping and transport hub of Svendborg. David had booked Grandpa Nelson and I into The Best Room in Town at the Aero Hotel.

See that high turret? That’s us!!

We had a bedroom, and then this delightful breakfast room in the turret, with a chandelier and great view of the ferry landing below. Grandpa could have watched for hours.

After we got moved in, we walked down the way and had dinner at Jette’s, a family favorite, and then walked around the harbor area.

It was a funky combination of working, slightly rusty harbor and newer, painted tourist area.

We had a great time just being silly!

The next day had enough adventure that it should get its own post. So, see you tomorrow!!

Love,

Grandma Judy

Across the Lillebro

Dear Jasper and Kestrel,

We have started our three day road trip across Denmark! There is so much to see.

We started our drive in the pouring rain, heading south from Horsens. We crossed over from the peninsula of Jylland to the island of Fyn over the Lillebro, or Little Bridge. As you can see, it is only little compared to the Storbro, or Big Bridge, which we will see later on our journey.

The weather went from rainy to blustery, with amazing clouds and a good stiff breeze.

We found the castle of Egeskov, which Auntie Olga calls “The Castle-iest Castle in Denmark.” She is so right! Surrounded by a lake-like moat, lovely gardens, a maze, and lots of land, it has been named Europe’s best preserved Renaissance water castle. It has stood here since 1554 and is currently owned by the latest in a long line of sons, Michael Ahlefeldt-Laurvig-Bille, but operated by the Danish government as a historic landmark.

Inside are generations of historic dresses, furnishings, weapons, and portraits. There are toys and kitchen tools displayed in the attic. It is a huge amount of stuff. Imagine if your house still had your great great grandma’s dishes, and all the rest of her stuff. Plus your stuff. Oy.

There is also a said-to-be- haunted doll in the attic which no one moved for a few hundred years, for fear the castle will fall down if they did. They all seem to be over it now, but the doll is still there.

Out in the grounds, we wandered the rose garden, maze, and water garden.

Everything was a photo opportunity! So I took lots. I love watching Uncle David explain things to Liza. Most of what I learned about the mechanical world came from my dad, so I value this sort of learning.

But there is MORE to Egeskov, and that will need to wait for tomorrow.

zlove,

Grandma Judy