Denmark – Dear Liza

Last Adventure in Denmark

Dear Jasper and Kestrel,

Our stay in Denmark is coming to an end, but there are still adventures to be had.

Liza’s favorite walk, for example, is along a particular stretch of the Horsens fjord called Elbaek Skov. It has an unusual sort of forest that could only exist in the protected environment of a fjord.

The huge trees that grow at the very edge of the water lean way out, looking for open sunlight. And since the waves in the fjord are almost nonexistent, the trees are not damaged or eroded, but just keep leaning and growing.

Like so any of the beautiful places in Denmark, this area amazingly accessible. A small parking lot leads to a gravelled path, which runs parallel to the shore. Without the sound of crashing waves you would expect, the feeling of peace and tranquility seeps slowly into your bones and when you are done walking, you feel better than you did when you went in.

We walked until we were halfway tired (as my Dad would say), then headed back home for lunch and more chat.

I know I have to go home soon, but I am sure going to miss these lovely people and this pretty country.

Love,

Grandma Judy

To Aarhus

Dear Jasper and Kestrel,

Except for Copenhagen, cities in Denmark are pretty small compared to those in the United Sates. Aarhus, just north of Horsens, (the little heart on this map) has a population of 295,000 and is the second biggest city in the country. But since it is also on the other side of the country from the capital, Aarhus also functions as a sort of regional federal office.

We saw this clearly at Dokk1, a combination civic building and library on the old harbor in Aarhus.

It has dozens of offices where folks go for citizenship, immigration, and other business with the government, which saves folks a several-hour long trip across to Copenhagen. And, since this sort of procedure can take a long time, there was a delightful cafe with lunches, fruit, drinks, and sweet treats.

Out on the wide, sunny terraces, creative play areas kept young ones from getting restless and provided me with one of my favorite soundtracks: the laughter of happy children.

The Library was not a silence-shrouded collection of books, but a lively, light-filled collection that shares space with Lego trays, art supply bins, and broad areas for playing “Book Ping Pong” and “Book Dominos”. All this works because of the Danish sensibility of group responsibility and looking out for others.

Nothing was being broken just to break it. No one was yelling just to be loud. This place belongs to everyone, so no one wants to spoil it. It was civilized and delightful.

We walked and looked until we were worn out, and then headed home.

Tomorrow is another day with more adventures!

Love,

Grandma Judy

Off to Meet the Vikings

Dear Jasper and Kestrel,

After the Forest Tower, we were all happily exhausted, but our day wasn’t over yet. There were reservation snafus and rearranging of expectations, which is a bit jarring, but always good experience.

We found a beautifully renovated hotel called Portgaarden in Skaelskør, had a delicious dinner, slept very well, and had a fabulous breakfast. Part of our morning was spent chucking rocks on the beach under the Storebaeltbor, the Great Belt Bridge that connects the island of Sjelland to Fyn.

This huge construction has a suspension part that is more than four miles long (more than twice as long as the Golden Gate Bridge). Then there is a lower causeway section hat is also just a bit over four miles long. It is an amazing accomplishment. We will cross that this afternoon.

But we were headed to see some old, old friends. The oldest friends in Denmark, in fact. The Vikings.

At Trellborg, we got to see the archeological remains of an actual Viking village, where hundreds of families lived, worked, raised children, and fought off enemies, starting in 980 A.D.

We saw their clothes, their weapons, and their graves.

Then we walked out into the round berm where they placed their houses, arranged for safety and society.

A model shows the overall view… some houses inside the berm, some outside for tending the sheep and the crops.

The outlines of these houses are still visible, covered in concrete to preserve them for future study. This is the best preserved Viking fort in Denmark, and there is still a lot to learn about it.

And it felt very real, very personal. These were mothers and kids, fathers and husbands, working together in a difficult situation, doing the best they knew how. From the archeological evidence, it looks like the fortress was built quickly and only occupied for about 15 years, then abandoned after a massive battle and fire.

The futility of all their work and vulnerability in a violent time leads me to think less about raiding Viking armies and more of the people who stayed home, keeping their society going. I have learned a new viewpoint. Travel does that.

Love,

Grandma Judy

Through Egeskov and Beyond!

Dear Jasper and Kestrel,

Besides the historic delights of Egeskov Castle there were more modern day things to see. The owners, over the years, have massed quite a collection of cars, trucks, motorcycles, and even planes!

These are housed in a wonderfully trussed barn just across the moat from the castle.

There were de-lousing trucks from World War I and shiny modern Jaguars. It was dazzling!

When we had seen all we had the stamina to see, we drove through some rainy, then sunny, then rainy again countryside. All this summer rain sure makes for green fields! We got to the coast ( I know, most of Denmark is COAST) and found the busy shipping and transport hub of Svendborg. David had booked Grandpa Nelson and I into The Best Room in Town at the Aero Hotel.

See that high turret? That’s us!!

We had a bedroom, and then this delightful breakfast room in the turret, with a chandelier and great view of the ferry landing below. Grandpa could have watched for hours.

After we got moved in, we walked down the way and had dinner at Jette’s, a family favorite, and then walked around the harbor area.

It was a funky combination of working, slightly rusty harbor and newer, painted tourist area.

We had a great time just being silly!

The next day had enough adventure that it should get its own post. So, see you tomorrow!!

Love,

Grandma Judy

Across the Lillebro

Dear Jasper and Kestrel,

We have started our three day road trip across Denmark! There is so much to see.

We started our drive in the pouring rain, heading south from Horsens. We crossed over from the peninsula of Jylland to the island of Fyn over the Lillebro, or Little Bridge. As you can see, it is only little compared to the Storbro, or Big Bridge, which we will see later on our journey.

The weather went from rainy to blustery, with amazing clouds and a good stiff breeze.

We found the castle of Egeskov, which Auntie Olga calls “The Castle-iest Castle in Denmark.” She is so right! Surrounded by a lake-like moat, lovely gardens, a maze, and lots of land, it has been named Europe’s best preserved Renaissance water castle. It has stood here since 1554 and is currently owned by the latest in a long line of sons, Michael Ahlefeldt-Laurvig-Bille, but operated by the Danish government as a historic landmark.

Inside are generations of historic dresses, furnishings, weapons, and portraits. There are toys and kitchen tools displayed in the attic. It is a huge amount of stuff. Imagine if your house still had your great great grandma’s dishes, and all the rest of her stuff. Plus your stuff. Oy.

There is also a said-to-be- haunted doll in the attic which no one moved for a few hundred years, for fear the castle will fall down if they did. They all seem to be over it now, but the doll is still there.

Out in the grounds, we wandered the rose garden, maze, and water garden.

Everything was a photo opportunity! So I took lots. I love watching Uncle David explain things to Liza. Most of what I learned about the mechanical world came from my dad, so I value this sort of learning.

But there is MORE to Egeskov, and that will need to wait for tomorrow.

zlove,

Grandma Judy

Walking on the Beach, Walking in The Woods

Dear Jasper and Kestrel,

Cousin Liza took me for a long walk down the beach by her house the other day. I had been there before, but it’s always fun to hear her take on things.

It was a sunny, chilly morning, and the light was sparkling on the water. The fjord doesn’t have waves, just little laps on the beach it is perfect for boating. Liza has started taking sailing lessons, and she posed by the boat she uses. All the boats are stored upside down in the boat yard. There is no fence around anything. “Stealing isn’t as big a thing here,” she said. I realized how much of our energy is the U.S. is spent keeping our stuff safe from thieves.

Further down the beach, we sat in huge wooden chairs that can be rotated into or out of the wind or sun. A very nice spot to perch!

We found two of Thomas Dambo’s trolls, called Laura and Julian, playing tug of war with a slack-line that you can walk on. We decided against it.

There were hammocks, which we rested in and watched the trees dance over our heads. We took pictures and messed around with color editing as we cuddled in the hammock. It was so nice to have quiet time with my youngest grandchild.

We got tired and hungry and headed to her place, where your Uncle David made everyone quesadillas. Then it was time for a short drive and a delightful walk through the Bollerskovene Klokkedal Skov, which is a national park just across the fjord from Horsens.

Broad, flat paths and burbling creeks made for a pleasant walk. We found a small bridge and I taught Liza how to play Pooh Sticks.

That lead to some engineering under the bridge to release the sticks. Engineers play differently than other folks, for sure. It was wonderful to see David and Liza having fun together!

And, as we walked back to the car, I got all three of my Danish family to pose. Aren’t they adorable? David drove us back to town and we all had naps and then a snack-ish dinner together.

Love,

Grandma Judy

Wild Flowers, Rune Stones, and Deer

Dear Jasper and Kestrel,

For our second day in Horsens, we headed out of town to Jelling. Of course, there is always a snag, and David’s Tesla needed charging, so we had a layover.

Liza and I enjoyed the massive wild flower field by the service station, and had a fine time identifying and photographing them. With the rain and long summer days, flowers grow really well here, even when no one takes care of them.

At Jelling, we met Auntie Olga’s friend Dennis. He is from Russia and getting used to life in Denmark, too.

The rune stones are rough, stout stones about seven feet high, carved all over with symbols. They were placed here, between two burial mounds, by the Danish King in the year 965 A.D.

This one, which shows a very stylized Jesus on the cross, was carved to show that King Harold Bluetooth (yes, really) had converted to Christianity. It is called Denmark’s Baptism certificate.

In case you were wondering, Harold’s initials, written in Danish runes (ancient letters) is the symbol we now use for Bluetooth wireless technology. Bluetooth was invented by a Dutch engineer while working in Sweden, so I guess it makes some sort of sense? Cool, anyway.

Scientists have discovered that the stone were originally painted!! Over a thousand years the paint has worn away, but tiny traces remain, and a replica of one of the stones has been created with what they think the original colors were. I was stunned. With the color, they look almost Mayan.

After some delicious ice cream, we said good-bye to Dennis and headed to our last stop of the day, the Deer Park outside of Vejle, south of Horsens. The deer were very gentle, of course, but not always cooperative.

One little girl followed the small group around with a handful of grass and kept offering it. She may have a long term strategy, but while we were there, the deer weren’t having it.

By this time, we were all pooped and drove ‘home’ for a well-deserved lay down.

Love,

Grandma Judy

Into Horsens

Dear Liza,

After four delightful, exhausting, art-filled days in Paris, our vacation changed gears. Your mom and Bridgett stayed in Paris, Katie and the kids went off to see friends in Germany, and Grandpa Nelson and I headed to Denmark to see you and your dad.

Our plane got in very late, so our first experience in Denmark was a good night’s sleep. (This is more important than you might think).

There are so many wonderful murals in Horsens. Two of my favorites are a robot hand freeing some birds, and a young man reading to a friend. I like that the murals reflect peace and friendship rather than anger or violence.

The next morning, you took me on an adventure to show me all your favorite places in town. Horsens is small, just about 61,000 people, and is very tranquil and safe.

We bundled up because it was very windy and just above freezing, though bright and sunny. The Industry Museum has a great play area with some challenging climbing structures. You lured me up four levels to this net-walk thing that led to a nutsy spiral slide. It put my Adventure Grandma muscles to the test.

By the fjord, you posed with this wonderful statue of a little girl sitting on a polar bear’s shoulder. I love the way she is patting his cheek.

After a few hours walking in the wind, we were worn out and had some down time. Grandpa Nelson and your dad kept talking.

We headed off for a drive to a beachside town called Julesminda. There, you showed me a climbing challenge I had to pass on. Steep, very narrow cages bridged the gap between tiny platforms disguised as fairy huts that climbed right up the side of a hill. I enjoyed watching you, but my nerves (and joints) failed me.

Later that day we drove up to the Highest Point in Denmark, called the Mollehoj. It is 561 feet high, which is not very high, actually. Mt. Tabor in Portland is 636 feet.

A thousand years or so ago, it was the burial place of Viking kings, but modern Danes carefully moved the kings elsewhere and built a tall tower (to make the high place even higher).

It is a fine place for a windblown selfie and a sweeping view of the surrounding landscape.

What a wonderful first day in Denmark!

Love,

Grandma Judy

International Adventure Grandma

Dear Liza,

Since you moved to Denmark, I have been studying about your new country so I can feel like I am visiting you. Denmark is a lot smaller than the United States. It is even smaller than the state of Oregon, where I live.

Don’t get me wrong. I really, really, like that Denmark is small. It is like Peter Pan’s Neverland, so it is never too far from one adventure to another.

The story is about an imaginary YOU and an imaginary ME traveling around Denmark, from Copenhagen to Horsens. The current title is “International Adventure Grandma”.

I have looked at a bunch of maps and websites, and have followed streets and bike paths with Googlemaps. I have found fun things to do and gotten us involved in interesting disasters.

And after four months of working away and lots of help from friends and family, I felt almost ready to share. But something was missing. It needed pictures.

I am not an illustrator, but have decided to do the pictures myself and learn as I go along. Here are some very rough ideas. I haven’t even decided if the pictures will be water colored, colored pencils, collages, or some other media. I am still learning.

But I promise it will be done by the time we visit in the spring!!

Love,

Grandma Judy

Getting Ready for Winter

Dear Liza,

A lot has happened since I wrote to you in August! You and your family have moved to Horsens, Denmark, and are discovering wonderful things to do there.

I have started learning Danish on Duolingo to get ready for our visit.

I had surgery on my ear to remove a skin cancer, and then a skin graft to put me back together. I am healing nicely.

Summer has ended and Fall has begun, with all the gardening that entails and beauty it brings.

I have planted some Hairy Vetch (a real thing) as a winter cover crop for my garden patch. It should put some nitrogen back in the soil and give it a nice green mulch come Spring.

I wrote a story about imaginary Liza and imaginary Grandma Judy, called “International Adventure Grandma”.

It has maps and secrets codes and I really enjoyed writing it! It is currently being edited by a trusted friend and I promise to bring a real hold-in-your-hand copy when I come visit in the Spring.

I expect to get back to writing this blog regularly, and hope you will come along and see what I’m up to.

Love,

Grandma Judy